The Indiana Restaurant That Will Take You Back To The 19th Century

You may know Indianapolis for the Colts, the Pacers, and the Indianapolis 500 (or Indy 500, that car race where the winner chugs milk like he's only vaguely aware of where his mouth is). You may not know it as a destination for quality German food. Allow us to introduce you to the Rathskeller, a German restaurant located in a building built for Indianapolis' German American community in the 19th century.

Although by now German Americans have been thoroughly assimilated into the great American melting pot, that was not the case in the 19th century. German immigrants began pouring into the country in the 1850s in search of a better life, with many of them settling in the Midwest. Major cities in the region like Chicago, Milwaukee, and, indeed, Indianapolis now had significant German American populations. As they rose in prominence and social standing, they wanted to honor their heritage. (As they still do – Oktoberfest, with its many beers, is very popular in the Midwest).

And so, in 1898, Das Deutsche Haus was built in Indianapolis in the Renaissance Revival style of architecture. (That means stained glass windows and the occasional cupola.) It was the brainchild of the Indianapolis Turnverein, an organization that promoted physical health and camaraderie through gymnastics. Alas, 20 years after Das Deutsche Haus was completed, the United States joined World War I, and a rising tide of anti-German sentiment prompted those in charge to rename the building the Athenaeum.

Even as German Americans assimilated into mainstream American culture, the building remained. Although it no longer hosts the Turnverein, the program did continue for a number of years, even sending a couple of American gymnasts to the Olympics in 1956. The building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places many times, before being declared a National Historic Landmark in 2016. The Athenaeum now hosts several German heritage groups, as well as a few performing arts organizations — and, of course, the Rathskeller.

The Rathskeller (named after a German word referring to a tavern or restaurant in a city hall's cellar) was established in 1894, making it Indianapolis' oldest restaurant still in operation. Located in the Athenaeum, it stays true to the building's heritage by offering hearty German food, including ochsenschwanz suppe (a traditional oxtail soup), sauerbraten (a marinated, slow-cooked beef roast), and, of course, schnitzel and wurst (with a side of German potato salad, if you like).

The Rathskeller also has its own biergarten, or beer garden, open during the warm months. The biergarten also serves food, with its own specialty menu that's somewhat lighter than the dinner menu, focusing on appetizers, salads, and sandwiches. (We're speaking relatively here, of course — this is still German food, after all). But, as you might expect from the name, the beer is the real star of the show: The Rathskeller's impressive array of German beer is doubtlessly perfect for watching a live performance (might we suggest a marzen, the original Oktoberfest beer). Prost!