My family grilled hot dogs and bratwurst growing up, but it was the weisswurst I most looked forward to. Literally “white sausage,” weisswurst are made from veal and pork, finely ground to a smooth, creamy texture. They’re remarkably mild but not unflavorful, as many butcher shops’ versions are seasoned with lemon, parsley, and spices including cardamom and mace. Some German restaurants serve them boiled—still delicious—but I prefer mine grilled so a slight char provides contrast to the silky filling.
Weisswurst can seem more refined than brats; they have a mousselike texture and more subtle flavors. They’re sometimes billed as a sausage to serve kids, because of their mildness, but I think adults can equally appreciate their rich veal luxury. I keep the condiments streamlined so as not to overwhelm the meat itself—a stripe of good mustard, maybe a spoon of grilled onions. Like my beloved liverwurst, weisswurst might not be much to look at—that gray color is admittedly not super inviting—but don’t knock(wurst) it until you’ve tried it. To my mind, weisswurst combine the best of high and low brow: veal, but in hot-dog format.
My family bought these from a German butcher shop in my hometown, which has tragically since closed. Now I get my fix at the German brewpub near me, but I still long for the backyard grilled version. Every time I’m at a butcher counter, my eyes scan the cases, hoping to see those familiar gray links.