Chicago Takes Home A 2025 James Beard Award With This Japanese Cocktail Bar

We may receive a commission on purchases made from links.

The James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards are the Oscars of the culinary world. Though famed figures like Anthony Bourdain openly hated the James Beard Foundation, the awards still have significant sway in fine dining in the United States. This year, the ceremony was held on June 16 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. The city can be proud not only to have been chosen as the host of the event but also to have taken home the Outstanding Bar Award with Kumiko.

Julia Momosé leads this Japanese cocktail bar, whose interior and menus are minimalistic. Don't confuse simple with uninteresting, however, as the art of subtle flavors is perfectly showcased in every sip of the carefully crafted cocktails and each bite of the seasonal dishes that take inspiration from Japanese traditions. 

The establishment is named after a woodworking technique common in Japan in which pieces are assembled without using nails and are instead masterfully shaped to perfectly fit together. This explains Kumiko's philosophy, in which everything served is assembled harmoniously, without the need of the "nails" often used in restaurants — like strong flavors that overpower everything else or clichéd combinations. This philosophy has earned the dining bar many accolades over the years: It landed in tenth place on the list of North America's 50 Best Bars in 2024, and Momosé also received Michelin's Exceptional Cocktails Award in 2022.

Kumiko accepts reservations via OpenTable for the bar, dining room, and lower-level Whiskey-Shochu Bar, though the restaurant also welcomes walk-ins on a first-come, first-served basis. Sample drinks like the sea flower, which features Nikka Coffey gin, citrus, blanc vermouth, and a rim of what Momosé calls "ocean dust" — a blend of sugar, salt, kombu, nori, and MSG. Or, go for a classic whiskey highball or old fashioned made with exceptional Japanese spirits.

The tasting menu is the best way to enjoy the full breadth of Kumiko's excellence, and it starts at $180 per person without drinks. Of course, a pairing is a must, and patrons can choose between four options: Japanese saké, shaken cocktails with lighter profiles, stirred cocktails with a stronger emphasis on spirits, and "spiritfrees" for those who don't drink alcohol and understand that mocktails can be just as elevated as cocktails. Although the menu changes every season, you can expect dishes like toasted mochi with wasabi crème fraîche and pickled myoga (Japanese ginger), salted and grilled snapper with lime, fish bone broth with citrus zests, and roasted sweet potato with chestnuts and Chantilly cream flavored with kinako (toasted soybean powder).

While it's worth it to plan a foodie vacation around James Beard Award winners, if you can't make it to Chicago soon, you can still enjoy a taste of Kumiko by purchasing Julia Momosé's book "The Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes." And if you're able to dine at the restaurant, you can purchase the book there as well and ask Momosé to sign it.