The Umami Addition That Makes Dirty Martinis Deliciously Savory

Savory cocktails are trending hard. Mustard, pickled onions, and fat-washed liquors are all cocktail staples du jour. But creative concoctions can't beat the lasting power — or simplicity — of a dirty martini, the classic savory drink. The drink lends itself to endless possibilities, often varying into forms that bear no resemblance to the original martini whatsoever. But Cody Goldstein, co-founder of hospitality group Muddling Memories, has a recommendation that'll impress die-hard martini purists while leveling up the drink: MSG, aka monosodium glutamate. 

"MSG in a dirty martini can subtly but powerfully elevate its umami profile, enhancing the savory depth already present from the olive brine," Goldstein tells The Takeout. He explains that MSG, like salt, works as a flavor enhancer. It amplifies umami flavors — like the olive brine in a dirty martini. "[MSG] can intensify the briny, earthy notes while softening the harsher edges of the alcohol, creating a smoother, more luxurious sip," he says.

We're not talking about adding MSG as a salt rim. MSG doesn't have much taste on its own and the taste that it does have isn't something you want front and center. Goldstein advises against mixing MSG straight into the drink, though. Lukewarm or room-temperature water will help the MSG dissolve, but you might get a few leftover grains in the bottom of your glass if you dump it straight into an ice-cold shaker. "The best way to incorporate MSG into a dirty martini is by dissolving a small amount into a saline solution, which can then be added drop by drop for precise control," he explains. 

Don't leave out the salt when you're making a saline solution with MSG. The two work best in tandem, not alone. Base the mix on a standard 10% saline solution. Goldstein says he'd use around 10 grams of salt to 100 milliliters of water for a standard saline solution, but he recommends swapping 2 to 3 grams of salt for MSG "to boost umami without overpowering the drink." Prefer your cocktails on the stronger side? Avoid watering down the booze by using olive brine to make the MSG solution instead. You might want to skip the salt, though — the brine is salty enough already. 

MSG isn't the only ingredient you can use to up the umami. Goldstein recommends a few other ingredients — and like MSG, they're readily available in the Asian food aisle. "A small dash of soy sauce," says Goldstein. "Deepens the overall flavor while maintaining balance." A little Shaoxing wine can help, too. The wine is typically used for cooking, not drinking, but it'll complement the flavors of a dirty martini nicely. Just make sure it doesn't overpower the other ingredients.

You don't need to strictly stick to liquids, either. "Anchovy paste adds a rich, briny depth that complements the olive brine's savoriness without tasting fishy when used sparingly," says Goldstein. "Miso — especially white or yellow varieties — brings a subtle fermented umami complexity that enhances the cocktail's roundness and mouthfeel." Just make sure to thin the pastes down first. As with powdered MSG, you'll have a harder time mixing the ingredients if you add paste straight to the shaker. Start by stirring it in with a few drops of liquid, then whisk, adding more until the paste is thin enough to combine with the rest of the drink.

Not a fan of gin-forward drinks? MSG — and other umami ingredients like soy sauce — can complement other savory cocktails, too. Experiment with bloody marys, micheladas, and bullshot cocktails, which star beef broth and vodka.