Why The Black And White Cookie Is A New York Thing

Few sweet treats capture the essence of New York City quite like the black and white cookie. This iconic half chocolate, half vanilla baked good has been a staple of the city's bakeries for over a century. Like so many beloved New York foods, the black and white cookie is a product of the city's incredibly rich immigrant past. Some say it evolved from the "half moon" cookie, which has a chocolate or vanilla cake base and buttercream frosting, and is still sold today at Hemstrought's Bakery in upstate New York. Others believe it was Glaser's Bake Shop, a beloved bakery on the Upper East Side, that played a significant role in popularizing the treat. 

While no single bakery can definitively claim to have invented the black and white cookie, it became a fixture of New York City's culture by featuring in the glass display cases of the city's many bodegas and delis. This was especially true of establishments located in neighborhoods with large Jewish communities. While many people have subsequently linked the cookies origin's with Jewish culture, others are not so sure. Culinary historian Stephen Schmidt takes a less-romantic view of the cookie's lore. He believes the iconic black-and-white cookie was born simply as a commercial trend of the 19th century. But, even if this cookie was just a product of its time, it's had enough staying power to last over a century.

Beyond its retro trendiness, the design of the cookie is also rooted in practicality. The even split of icing ensures that each bite offers a balance of flavors, and its smooth, fondant finish makes it stand out in bakery cases. Even today, if you walk into a New York Jewish deli or bagel shop, there's a good chance you'll see black and white cookies wrapped in plastic, next to the rugelach and chocolate babka. Despite ever-changing food trends, the black and white cookie remains a nostalgic favorite and trying one is a savvy way to "test" the chops of a Big Apple bakery. New York bakeries like Zabar's, William Greenberg Desserts, and Orwashers Bakery continue to bake and sell out of these iconic cookies regularly.

Besides its sentimental sweetness, the black and white cookie continues to hold a symbolic place in New York pop culture and memes. Famously referenced in an episode of "Seinfeld" where Jerry proclaims, "Look to the cookie!" as a metaphor for racial harmony, the treat has come to represent the city's diverse nature. When former President Obama was visiting Florida during his 2008 campaign, he famously ordered the cookies at a deli, calling them "unity cookies." As this interaction proves, the cookie brings together different flavors and backgrounds into one harmonious whole, much like New York City itself.