Why Restaurant Coleslaw Tastes So Much Better Than Homemade
There are some classic dishes you shouldn't bother ordering at a restaurant. Soups, stews, and spaghetti often taste better if you make them at home. Steaks, on the other hand, are almost always better at a restaurant, and the same could be said for tuna salad. Or for salads in general, if truth be told, including coleslaw. But what makes restaurant coleslaw so delicious? In an interview with The Takeout, Maricel Gentile, chef and owner at Maricel's Kitchen, tried to answer this question, explaining why restaurant coleslaw usually tastes much better than any version you might buy at the grocery store or make at home.
"Many of the homemade or pre-made versions can be too watery and overdressed, making them feel heavy and taste dull." Gentile told us. Restaurant coleslaw avoids these pitfalls by being fresh. The care put into making fresh coleslaw ensures that it has what Gentile described as "a really good balance of crunch, creaminess, and acidity." The ingredients and techniques used also play a part, and Gentile was kind enough to break these down for us, offering some tips on how we can improve our homemade coleslaw.
Restaurants pre-salt the slaw
One reason why restaurant salads in general always taste so good is because the greens are salted. Salt is the secret ingredient that can seriously boost the flavor of just about any savory dish (and quite a few sweet ones, too). But, in coleslaw, it serves another purpose too. As Maricel Gentile explained, "Salting draws out the moisture from the cabbage."
In Gentile's opinion, "A well-made slaw is finely shredded and has its moisture removed beforehand by using a little salt on the cabbage and draining the water well." If you're making coleslaw at home, she said the best thing to do is to salt the shredded cabbage lightly, then allow it to sit for anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes while the process of osmosis works to dehydrate it. Once the time has elapsed, rinse the shredded greens and pat them dry. The result? As per Gentile, "Your cabbage will be crisp and will absorb the flavors of the dressing."
Restaurants choose the right ingredients
The best coleslaw starts with choosing the right cabbage for the job. Maricel Gentile said, "Green cabbage is common and recommended as it holds up to the dressing. You can mix in red cabbage with green cabbage for a bit of peppery flavor." Aside from flavor, the red cabbage also adds some visual interest. However, it is important not to add too much red cabbage lest it end up dominating the slaw. Gentile also added, "Savoy cabbage can be used but it has a soft texture and is a little sweeter than green cabbage. It works well for a delicate slaw."
It is well known that coleslaw can also benefit from a few mix-ins, and Gentile recommended carrots for their sweetness and bright orange color, daikon for its mild pepperiness, and jicama for crunch. She also endorsed fruits such as apples, mangoes, and pineapple, saying these could all add sweetness and help to balance the acidity of the dressing. On a more unexpected note, she said, "Thinly sliced fennel adds nice anise flavor," but cautioned, "Make sure it's sliced thin or it can overpower [the slaw]." Herbs she recommends adding to coleslaw include cilantro, parsley, and chives, but Gentile warned, "Use sparingly so they don't overpower [the slaw]. A little goes a long way."
Restaurant dressing is well-balanced
You can't have great coleslaw without a great dressing, and that's something else you may be more likely to find at a restaurant. After all, restaurant chefs know how to balance acid (which can be obtained either from vinegar or citrus juice), fat (typically either oil or mayonnaise), and seasoning. Different chefs may have their go-to ingredients, but Maricel Gentile seems to like dressings on the sweet side since she suggested using honey mustard. She also feels that soy sauce is a good tool to enrich a dressing's flavor. This extra flavor is important as Gentile noted, saying, "Taste your dressing, make sure it's well seasoned. Make it a little bolder than you think it should be, as when you add the cabbage it will mellow out."
In addition to using the right ingredients, Gentile emphasized, "Make sure your dressing emulsifies properly when making it." Her advice is to whisk the dressing slowly or to use a blender, although an immersion or stick blender will also work. (Shaking in a jar probably won't do the trick unless you're starting with a mayonnaise base.) Gentile also said, "Don't make your dressing and then add your cabbage right away — let you[r] dressing sit over night or at least a few hours in the fridge first. This will let the flavors meld and make it more cohesive." Failing all this, you can always use tzatziki sauce as a quick coleslaw dressing.
Restaurants use just the right amount of dressing
Even if you've created a perfectly balanced, expertly seasoned coleslaw dressing, you still need to know how to apply it, and once again, this is where trained restaurant professionals have the edge. When asked what is the proper amount of dressing to add to coleslaw, Maricel Gentile said, "Coated – not drowning. Every bit should have flavor while the cabbage still remains crisp." She went on to say, "A good rule is to add half of what you made, toss, then gradually add more as needed." She did caution, though, "Use a little less than you think you need as the cabbage will still release moisture over time." In other words, skimping just a little on the dressing will help to keep your coleslaw from becoming soggy.
You also shouldn't dig into the coleslaw as soon as it's dressed. Restaurant best practice, as per Gentile, is to allow the dressed coleslaw to sit for half an hour to an hour. This, she told us, "will let the cabbage absorb the flavors but not get soggy." She also informed us that leftover coleslaw, unlike lettuce-based salad, doesn't deteriorate right away. Instead, she said it can last for up to two days in the refrigerator before it begins to wilt.