What's The Purpose Of Sulfites In Our Wine?

Just when you thought you had everything you really needed to know about wine figured out, like which bottle of Barolo to pair with a bolognese, which Chablis to choose with roast chicken, and which wines to avoid at the grocery store, sulfites have entered the chat. Recently they've been the subject of a lot of bad press, frequently scapegoated for the inevitable headache the day after a bit too much imbibing. Can these headaches really be chalked up to sulfite sensitivities and allergies, or is it just a hangover?

Sulfites are compounds which contain sulfur dioxide and they're often used in food and wine as preservatives to maintain freshness and prevent products from developing any off-flavors. In the wine world, there are two types of sulfites: natural sulfites, which are produced in low levels during the fermentation process, and added sulfites, which keep wine from oxidizing or growing bacteria. This means that they help protect precious vintages from converting into top-shelf vinegars.

While 'sulfite-free' wines have received a lot of attention, these chemical compounds aren't just in your favorite bottle of Beaujolais — they're in a wide variety of foods, both naturally and as additives. So before you scour the shelves of your favorite wine store for sulfite-free labels, let's take a look at what these chemical compounds actually do and whether or not it's worth your time to skip them.

While sulfite allergies are relatively rare, according to the FDA, an estimated 1% of the population may experience sulfite sensitivity. Adverse reactions following exposure to sulfites include headaches, dermatological reactions, abdominal pain, and respiratory symptoms such as coughing and wheezing. Due to an uptick in sulfite allergies, a 1987 law required that any food with 10 PPM (parts per million) or more sulfites to be labeled with "contains sulfites." This includes lemon juice, sauerkraut, and dried fruits. So before you blame the red wine for your headache, keep in mind that there are plenty of other sulfite-laden foods out there too. If you are trying to ditch as many sulfites as you can while still having a glass of wine, steer clear from sweet dessert wines, which contain the most sulfur dioxide. Be on the lookout for organic wines which are produced from organic grapes and made without added sulfites (though they still contain natural sulfites).