The Controversial Onion Sandwich James Beard Loved

Restaurant owner, author, and overall advocate for the culinary arena, James Beard was a guiding force in the food and beverage world, and when he praised something, people listened. Among the many dishes he loved most was a simple onion sandwich. He wasn't alone: Ernest Hemingway famously adored peanut butter and onion sandwiches.

Beard once said, "I could easily make a whole meal of onion sandwiches, for to me they are one of the greatest treats I know." In 1965, Beard included a recipe for what he called "Brioche en Surprise," consisting of white bread, butter, onion slices, mayonnaise, parsley, and salt, in his cookbook "Menus for Entertaining." However, Beard did not create the recipe himself. It was invented by Irma and Bill Rhode, brother-and-sister caterers with whom Beard worked in 1940. The sandwich had become one of the siblings' most in-demand and beloved recipes. But Beard blatantly and quite unapologetically included the recipe in his own book without giving any credit to the Rhode siblings. What's more, as Beard became more famous, the sandwich became known as "James Beard's onion sandwich." 

Beard wrote many more cookbooks, founded the prestigious James Beard Cooking School, and became a respected voice and presence in the food world, but this early recipe theft would not be Beard's last. Critics have suggested that his fame was largely built upon (or at least supported by) the thoughts and recipes of others. He gave little credit to his collaborators, ghostwriters, and editors, claiming both recipes that had been published elsewhere and some that had not yet been released. 

Despite his shortcomings, the James Beard name is still closely associated with culinary greatness, and, perhaps because his name was behind those onion sandwiches (even though the true creators' weren't), more people paid attention to them than expected.

The ingredients for the classic onion sandwich may be plain, but part of the sandwich's appeal is the presentation. The bread is cut into perfect rounds, so the resulting sandwich is rather small, crustless, and dainty-looking. After the butter or mayonnaise and onion slices are placed between the bread, the entire outer edge is covered with more mayo and then coated with bright green chopped parsley. In a way, onion sandwiches could be part of that exclusive group of sandwiches that need little to be memorable, including the beloved Southern dish, the tomato sandwich, as well as cucumber sandwiches, peanut butter and jelly, and grilled cheese.

Onion sandwiches have become a Southern favorite as well. James Beard's version calls for brioche bread, but white sandwich bread is just as good. As far as the onion varietal goes, Beard recommends a sweet onion, and in the South, the Vidalia is what many people reach for. Duke's mayonnaise has a cult following in the South, and is the condiment of choice for onion sandwiches made in that region.

Beard's long-time friend and colleague, Jacques Pépin, made his onion sandwich on his public television show, "Cooking at Home." Pepin reminded viewers to cut the onion thin, because even if they are sweet onions, no one necessarily wants a mouthful of onion. You just want the crunch and flavor. And instead of coating the sandwich in chopped parsley, Pepin used chopped chives. But, perhaps most importantly, Pepin never took credit for the sandwich because it wasn't his to own.