The History Behind Canned Deviled Ham Spread

It's no surprise that we here at The Takeout love our canned foods. Whether it's Spam, fancy Spanish tuna, or Mandarin oranges, sometimes you just need to base your entire meal around a shelf-stable food product full of preservatives and flavor. Today we're unpacking the history of canned deviled ham, a product that inspires reactions ranging from a cult-like following to confusion and, sometimes, just a plain WTF? Perhaps one of the most original canned foods in the United States, deviled ham has a storied New England history that makes it as American as apple pie.

But just what exactly is deviled ham? It's made from ground-up cured ham mixed with a variety of spices and sometimes a spicy brown or Dijon mustard to create a paté-like consistency. The "deviled" part comes from an old-fashioned English culinary expression that meant it was cooked with hot spices – you know, like in hell. It's ready to be eaten immediately out of the can as a spread on crackers or bread (a third ham sandwich to add to your repertoire after city ham and country ham). Though homemade versions certainly exist, why bother when the Underwood company has been perfecting their canned version since the Civil War? Founded in Boston in 1822, the William Underwood Company first got their start manufacturing condiments and pickled vegetables, but things really kicked off when they started selling deviled ham as a canned meat spread, complete with a spicy little devil mascot.

The product's popularity really took off after Union soldiers survived on it during the Civil War (similar to the history of Spam, which also came to fame in wartime). The iconic devil logo followed soon after, debuting in 1870, and is thought to be the oldest food trademark still in use for a prepackaged food in the U.S. The red devil has undergone many variations since he first appeared, with earlier versions showing him with long black claws, a cloven hoof, and a slightly creepy smile on his mustachioed face. Sadly, he's been a little "Disney-fied" since then, now seen cartoonishly frolicking on the can with a friendly smile and wave.

Underwood doesn't give too many details on what devilish spices they're using, listing only mustard flour, spices, and turmeric as their seasoning. Early advertisements claim it was "Branded with the devil but fit for the gods." While we wouldn't call the taste god-like, it's certainly worth trying once, especially if you have a guilty pleasure for Vienna sausages, potted meats, and other canned foods most people stopped eating. Former president (and Boston native) John Fitzgerald Kennedy might have also had a taste for the meat spread, as the cans are displayed in the kitchen at the John Fitzgerald Kennedy National Historic Site in Massachusetts. Truly, the devil is in the details.