Béchamel Or Ricotta: What's The Proper Filling For Lasagna?

Lasagna is a beloved dish worldwide, so much so that it has inspired several other dishes including one of my favorites: eggplant Parmesan. Lasagna is the cause of lovely, long family meals and not-so-lovely ingredient debates between chefs and cooks alike. When it comes to building the ultimate lasagna, the discussion of choosing between béchamel and ricotta as the proper filling is longstanding. There's no arguing of the fact that they are both delicious, but if we're talking traditional Italian lasagna — especially the classic Emilia-Romagna style — béchamel is the clear answer. This creamy, smooth sauce brings a subtle richness without competing with the other flavors, making it the preferred choice for those who want a perfectly balanced lasagna. Ricotta has its fans, especially in American kitchens, but if you're after that authentic Italian experience of a meal cooked by a nona with love as the secret ingredient, then béchamel is the way to go.

Lasagna's origins go back to ancient Greece and Rome, when the early layered dishes were called "laganon," or "layers of flat dough with sauce."  The food and name evolved over centuries, first to "lasanon," meaning "chamber pot" (a reference to the pot used to cook the pasta), to eventually lasagna. 

In the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, lasagna became iconic with a focus on quality sauces that let each layer shine. Here, béchamel was introduced as a creamy binder that complemented rather than competed with meat, tomatoes, and pasta flavors. When the meal became popular in the U.S., cooks swapped to ricotta out of necessity, as béchamel was less common. But in Italy, béchamel remained the preferred choice for its smooth texture and mild flavor, which lets the other ingredients take center stage.

Béchamel's smooth, creamy texture brings a harmonious, layered experience to lasagna, coating each piece evenly. It also has a gentle flavor profile that enhances without overpowering, making it ideal for the layered dish. While creamy, ricotta needs to be strained as it has a grainier texture and stronger taste that can sometimes overwhelm. In contrast, béchamel balances the savory meat and acidic tomatoes with a subtle richness. Its adaptability allows you to add Parmesan or even a bit of nutmeg for extra depth.

For those who appreciate the tradition and balanced flavors of Italian cuisine, béchamel is the filling that best complements lasagna. While ricotta might work well in Americanized or experimental recipes, classic lasagna is all about letting the ingredients shine through in harmony. If you crave a crispy texture, try Giada De Laurentiis's sheet-pan trick, which adds an irresistible edge to each slice. In the end, béchamel brings the authentic Italian balance that makes lasagna unforgettable.