Portuguese Vs Chinese Egg Tarts: What Is The Difference?
The difference between Portuguese and Chinese egg tarts is similar to the difference between New York cheesecake and Japanese cheesecake. Both are similar, yet vary in texture, flavor, and richness based on their regional styles. And just like cheesecake (which originated in Greece), the tart isn't native to either country. While the French can take credit for inspiring the ambrosial Portuguese egg tart (and a series of other interesting events), popularly known as pastel de nata, the sublimity of the Chinese egg tart, or daan tat, was partly a gift from the British.
The first batches of pastel de nata and daan tat are believed to have been created in the 18th and 20th centuries, respectively. Because their history is not only influenced by two other cultures but also situational and regional differences, a quick look at their origins makes it easier to understand both the nuances and glaring differences in these delectable confections.
What led to these differences?
The origins of Portuguese egg tarts might take many by surprise. This velvety, fluffy delight was actually created by Catholic monks who had returned from France. Around that time, convents and monasteries in Portugal used egg whites to starch their laundry (yes, it's a thing). This led to a surplus of egg yolks, and that's how pastel de nata was born, along with other desserts like fios de ovos (what a great way to solve the surplus issue). But this is what led to the primary difference between the Chinese and Portuguese egg tarts — the eggs. While the Chinese version uses whole eggs, only yolks are added to the Portuguese tarts.
The Chinese egg tarts (not to be confused with Macau tarts), on the other hand, were a classic case of East meets West. It is believed to have been introduced by the British in Guangzhou, then Canton, in the '20s. While introduced by the British, the Cantonese chefs created their own version, leading to the second primary difference — the crust. They replaced the light and flaky layers of puff pastry — a defining element in the Portuguese egg tart—with a denser, shortcrust casing, almost like pie crust. This helped them save time, as they could use the same dough to make dim sum dishes like barbecue pork puffs.
Other distinguishing features
A key distinction, aside from the crust, lies in the caramelized custard filling. It's what immediately draws the eye when comparing the two. It is also richer, as the Portuguese version has more eggs, giving the custard a creamier and luscious texture. Fewer eggs are used in the Chinese tart (almost half the number) and rely more on milk, usually evaporated milk instead, imparting a lighter, more delicate texture. The former is also sweeter than the Chinese egg tart and sometimes lemon zest is used to add a tinge of sourness, while the latter mostly relies on vanilla.
The top is yet another feature that is immediately noticeable. Due to caramelization, Portuguese tarts have a more uneven surface, while Chinese tarts have a perfectly smooth top. Traditional Portuguese tarts are also baked in special pastry tins of a specific size. If you're wondering which one to go for first, maybe try one of each simultaneously, all the while imagining how they came to be. If you can get a transfer to Hong Kong through Lisbon, why not try them, more-or-less, back to back!