The French Restaurant That Served Julia Child A Life-Changing Meal

In an age where recipe videos keep getting weirder, there are moments when classic cooking shows like Julia Child's "The French Chef" on PBS feel wonderfully nostalgic. As one of the most beloved chefs, authors, and television personalities in the U.S., Julia Child inspired generations to cook. Most people have little idea that Julia Child's route to gastronomical stardom did, in fact, begin quite far from the kitchen. 

Born in 1912 to a wealthy family in Pasadena, California, Julia initially pursued history at Smith College, then moved to New York City to work as an advertising copywriter after graduation. Her life took a dramatic turn during World War II, where she joined OSS (the CIA's precursor) and then met Paul Child, a diplomat with a passion for gourmet food, while serving in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). They later married in 1948 and Paul's position with the U.S. Foreign Service took them to France. It was here, at La Couronne in Rouen, the very first restaurant Julia and Paul dined after landing in France, that Julia experienced a meal that changed her life forever.

At La Couronne in Rouen, Julia was being greeted with savory oysters, Chablis, and sole meunière. She later wrote about it in her book "My Life in France," recalling that she was absolutely captivated, calling it "the most exciting meal of my life". In 1949, Julia enrolled at the renowned Le Cordon Bleu, sparking her journey into French cuisine and her rise as a culinary icon.

La Couronne is as legendary as Julia Child would become. Nestled in the northern city of Rouen, France, the restaurant boasts the oldest inn in France, with roots dating all the way back to 1345. La Couronne first started as a humble inn and eventually transitioned into an esteemed restaurant serving classic French fare. With wood-beam interiors, medieval architecture, and historic decoration, La Couronne transports diners back in time upon a single step inside the venue, enchanting not only Julia but countless others. Over the years, La Couronne has welcomed an impressive range of guests: from famous artists to sportsmen, movie stars, royalty, and politicians. Among them were Salvador Dalí and Grace Kelly.

Specializing in northern French cuisine, La Couronne provides an authentic dining experience with hearty regional delicacies, from duck à la rouennaise (duckling cooked in its own blood sauce) and rib roast to an abundance of freshly caught seafood. For fans of Julia, the restaurant has created a 68 euro prix fixe menu in her honor, featuring sole meunière, green salad, soufflé Normand, and coffee with mignardises. Now, let's dive into the centerpiece of Julia's first exposure to French cuisine: sole meunière and its significance in northern French cooking.

Northern French cuisine is simple, hearty, and comforting, often featuring generous amounts of butter and cream; perfect for the region's damp, cold climate. Stretching from Brittany's Atlantic coast to Calais and the Belgian border, this area provides abundant grasslands and seaside towns with access to premium livestock and seafood. Julia Child's famous saying, "With enough butter, anything is good" — also cherished by Julie in the film, "Julie & Julia" – is likely a tribute to her culinary journey that was deeply rooted in Northern France's flavors.

Sole meunière is a classic dish that embodies the essence of Northern French cuisine: rich yet simple food that highlights local dairy and seafood. A classic sole meunière features a lightly floured sole fillet sautéed and basted in butter, finished with lemon and parsley. Meunière translates to "miller's wife," possibly hinting at its humble origins. The term refers to the preparation method of sautéing or pan-frying floured white fish in butter. Even though it uses only a few ingredients, this dish is divinely flavorful and rich. And in her recipe for sole meunière, Julia added an extra layer of flavor with a handful of capers. Imagine the butter browning as it bathes the fish. No wonder it has captivated Julia's heart and how she developed such a deep love for butter!