Was Oyster Ice Cream Really An Early American Staple?

Much like a blank canvas, ice cream is ready to be splashed with endless flavors, each one a chance to create something new and surprising. Perhaps that's why even the most cautious eaters are willing to embrace the wild side when it comes to this frozen delight. It's a beloved staple in nearly every American's freezer and as a summertime staple, from the classic vanilla and chocolate to the mysterious superman and thrilling mealworms. 

Everyone's got a story about that one bizarre flavor they've tried that no one else has heard of. Just when you dive into the latest trends and think things couldn't get crazier, remember the popular old-school oddballs–like oyster ice cream, a curious blend of enigmatic stories and unconfirmed history that remains a unique part of America's culinary legacy.

Even more jaw-dropping than oyster ice cream itself are the wild legends that swirl around it. Rumor has it the Pilgrims served up this curious concoction at the very first Thanksgiving, and it later became a favorite frozen treat of Dolley Madison, the wife of President James Madison, at the White House. Some say it was Mark Twain's indulgence, making a cameo in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer. And let's not forget George Washington, who apparently couldn't get enough of this briny, creamy oddity. 

These stories give oyster ice cream an almost mythical status in American history. Yet, like all good legends, they tend to float around without much proof–fun and quirky to imagine, but impossible to pin down.

Even though oyster ice cream now even appears on the menu at America Eats Tavern in Washington, D.C., a collaboration between celebrity chef José Andrés and the National Archives that celebrates classic American dishes and their evolution, there's little evidence to back up the tales of its supposed popularity in the past.

In reality, the only known written reference to oyster ice cream comes from "The Virginia Housewife" by Mary Randolph, one of America's earliest cookbooks, first published in 1824 which was nearly two centuries after the first Thanksgiving. Unlike the sweet treat we might expect, Randolph's version is a savory creation. It involves making a creamy oyster soup with oysters, onion, lean ham, eggs, cream, flour, and thyme, seasoned with salt and pepper. The instructions for this "Oyster Cream" are brief: "Make a rich soup, (see directions for oyster soup), strain it from the oysters, and freeze it." Nestled among recipes for more familiar flavors like strawberry and chocolate, "Oyster Cream" is essentially strained, frozen oyster chowder. It almost seems like an afterthought–an oddity among the classics, yet presented without a trace of irony.

The exact reason why Mary Randolph included "Oyster Cream" in her cookbook remains a mystery. However, a closer look at 19th-century American food culture might offer some clues. What seems odd to us today might have made perfect sense back then–perhaps even as fitting as the classic combination of oysters and champagne.

By the 19th century, both oysters and ice cream had found their place in American food culture, possibly setting the stage for the invention of this unique, savory, icy dish.

The 19th century was America's Golden Age of Oysters, a time when booming production made this once-luxury food accessible to all. Initially reserved for the wealthy, oysters became cheaper than meat by the mid-1800s. This price drop turned oysters into a favorite protein-rich food for the working class. New York City emerged as a key center of oyster trade, with bustling markets like Fulton Market meeting the high demand. 

Oyster houses that offered quick, affordable meals became increasingly popular, paving the way for today's raw bars, while railroads and refrigeration spread oysters nationwide. Meanwhile, in 19th-century America, ice cream's popularity soared thanks to new production methods like the hand-cranked churn and industrial refrigeration, which allowed for large-scale manufacturing. Ice cream became more affordable and accessible to all social classes and quickly became a beloved frozen dessert staple across the country.

So, was oyster ice cream really an early American staple? Likely not, but its story offers a curious lens into the adventurous spirit of 19th-century food culture and serves as a quirky reminder that culinary history is always full of surprises.