Parchment Paper Is The Unexpected Secret To A Better Poach

Years ago, at a garage sale, I came across an amazing kitchenware deal: a large cast-iron skillet and a beautiful Dutch oven, both from the legendary company Le Creuset (whose color palette is extensive), for $12. Purchased new, these items would have cost hundreds. There was only one drawback — no lid on that Dutch oven.

Problem? Not really: I had the materials to make one at home. Not that I was heating up a forge and casting iron in my apartment kitchen. I could just reach for a roll of parchment paper, a relatively unsung kitchen hero that's well known to chefs for its ability not just to stand in for a traditional pan lid but, often, to improve on it. Pros fold parchment into a paper lid (called a cartouche) when they want to trap some heat and steam but don't want a tight seal. When a recipe instructs you to partially cover a dish as it cooks, that's a perfect opportunity for a cartouche which cooks food more evenly than, say, a lid left ajar.

Parchment lids and other paper wrappings are especially good for poaching light proteins like fish and chicken. The chef Jacques Pépin, for instance, likes to use a parchment paper lid for a simple technique known as shallow poaching, where fish is gently steamed in a bit of flavorful liquid without being fully submerged. Here's more on what that looks like — and what else a humble piece of parchment can do for your cooking.

Start with a square of parchment larger than whatever vessel you're covering. Fold it in half diagonally, then into quarters, then eights, then once or twice more; like you're making a paper fan. Cut the cartouche to size by placing it over the surface of the pan with the pointy end in the middle. If the pan is a circle, the folded paper is its radius. Use scissors to trim the outer edges to fit, and snip the pointy end to make a little hole for steam to escape, then unfold.

Shallow poaching goes something like this. Sauté aromatics (onion, garlic, etc.) in butter or olive oil. When they're soft, add a piece of fish and a generous splash of wine. Cover all this with your cartouche then simmer the fish on the stovetop till it's flaky but still tender inside. The parchment paper lid helps it cook evenly while letting a little moisture evaporate, concentrating the flavors. Once the fish is done, transfer it to a serving platter where covering it with the cartouche can serve another purpose — keeping it warm. Return the pan to the heat, simmering the sauce to thicken it slightly, and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in a little cold butter if you want to enrich it or stir in some other fresh ingredients to punch up the flavors — chopped tomatoes, olives, or herbs. Drizzle over the fish and serve.

So that's one method for using paper when a lid is lacking. A closely related idea is cooking en papillote — another technique that uses parchment to deliver some of the most succulent fare you can make at home. Here, though, you're not just making a lid. You're making a paper bundle that will completely encapsulate your food.

It's even easier: Just fold a square or rectangle of parchment in half, then cut it into a heart shape like you remember doing in elementary school. Unfold the heart and lay it flat on the counter. Put whatever food you're cooking on one side, season it, and drizzle on the liquid that will help steam it. You could do this with shrimp, Old Bay seasoning, butter, and a splash of beer, for instance, or salmon, pesto, and white wine. Fold the other half over and crimp around the edges to form a seal. Then transfer it to a baking pan and throw it in a hot oven.

This approach has a number of selling points. The pan won't get too dirty, making cleanup a cinch. You can prep the bundles ahead of time and bake them when you're ready. Food cooked en papillote also makes for a beautiful presentation on the plate (as long as you beware of escaping steam when opening the package). But the proof is mainly in the juicy, super-flavorful food that'll have your dinner guests delighted.