The Native American Roots Of Rhode Island Johnnycakes
Who knew something as simple as a pan-fried corn cake could have such a long, convoluted history? Johnnycakes are now a New England staple, but different renditions of the snack have been eaten everywhere from Newfoundland to the Caribbean throughout the last few centuries. It's believed that Native Americans were the first to create the dish back in the 1600s, using the white cap flint corn they cultivated in Rhode Island. They then taught European colonists how to make them, alongside other meals using the corn crops that were plentiful in New England during that time.
Johnnycakes are almost like pancakes but are made with cornmeal rather than flour. They're typically cooked on a hot griddle or in a cast iron pan (we promise cast iron isn't as hard to clean as you think) and they have a unique texture and subtle sweetness from the corn.
There are numerous beliefs about the name of the infamous corncakes. While they're known as johnnycakes in New England, some believe the name is derived from "Shawnee cake," named after the Native American Shawnee people who first made the dish. Others think the name originated from "journeycake," because the durable cakes were carried in saddlebags on long trips for sustenance (which is also why the lore of johnnycakes spread across the U.S.). They're known as "hoecakes" in the southern part of the United States, and there's even an Australian twist on the recipe, so it all depends on who you ask.
The inner-workings of a Rhode Island Johnnycake
While there's some disagreement across the country about whether pancakes or waffles are superior, Rhode Islanders can all agree that the corn-based johnnycakes are a delicious part of their state's history. But here's where the opinions begin to differ! Even in the small New England state, there are many different ways to make the dish. Some areas of Rhode Island are known for their thin, crispy johnnycakes, whereas others are known for a thick, doughier version. We can almost guarantee that if you ask any person in Rhode Island, they'll have a different take on the best way to make and eat them.
There are also very strong opinions about the type of corn that should be used to make Rhode Island johnnycakes. Some believe the original white cap flint corn is the only option for the beloved dish. The corn is native to the Narragansett people of the Ocean State, but it's become harder to find in mass quantities, so others have opted for different corn options (and even different to still get their johnnycake fix. Though as Native communities work to reclaim their corn and other agricultural practices, it's possible white cap flint corn may become more readily available someday, though the current focus is on reintroducing it into tribal families in the state. In the meantime, grab your favorite cornmeal and give the historic Rhode Island johnnycakes a spin.