Chocolate Mayonnaise: The Mousse That Time Forgot

When you think of chocolate recipes, you probably don't think of mayonnaise — but maybe you should. This rich creation actually has roots in French culinary history, much like French onion soup covered in cheese or fluffy and warm chocolate soufflés.

The concept of chocolate mousse has become somewhat scrambled across the centuries. French writer Menon documents a chocolate drink recipe for Louis XV, but an earlier chocolate mixture has been traced back to Central America in the 17th century, showcasing that mousse does seem to predate its popularization in France.

The evolution of chocolate mousse to chocolate mayonnaise is intriguing and not as strange of a combination as you're likely expecting. Originally called mayonnaise au chocolat, this recipe features whipped egg yolks combined with chocolate, yielding a smooth and luscious consistency. Despite its name, the similarities to your traditional homemade mayonnaise recipe — which includes eggs, vinegar, and oil — are minimal. Thankfully, the name has since shifted, sparing us the confusion.

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec is often mistakenly credited with inventing chocolate mousse, but he actually adapted the existing French recipe, mayonnaise de chocolat. Toulouse-Lautrec, born outside Toulouse in a town called Albi, was known for his artistry. While his art rarely showcased food, Toulouse-Lautrec had a passion for cooking and often hosted dinner parties for friends, blending his love for culinary experimentation with his bold artistic style, as seen in his well-known painting "At the Moulin Rouge."

Despite his short stature and fragile bones, due to what is now believed to be pycnodysostosis, Toulouse-Lautrec embraced life fully, exploring diverse cuisines — from porpoise and squirrel, to grilled grasshoppers. His adventurous palate is evident in "The Art of Cuisine," a compilation of his recipes published in 1930, in which he revealed a unique approach to food. Among his creations is the "Earthquake," a potent mixture he created using absinthe and cognac and, of course, chocolate mayonnaise. Although his drink recipes aren't for the faint of heart, his approach to cooking and baking is similar to his passion for creating art.

Toulouse-Lautrec's dear friend, poet Paul Leclercq, wrote after Lautrec's passing, "He was a great gourmand. He loved to talk about cooking and knew of many rare recipes for making the most standard dishes." Similar to his paintings bringing mundane moments in cafes, at a restaurant, or simply lying in bed, Lautrec highlighted how even simple recipes like chocolate mousse can become essential recipes in your baking repertoire. So the next time you set about making a dessert like the indulgent chocolate mousse from Anthony Bourdain's "Les Halles" cookbook, see if you can tweak or enhance the recipe to create your own mayonnaise de chocolat masterpiece.