The Bougie Dessert Julia Child Considered An All Time Fave

Julia Child, towering at 6'2" with pearls and poise, brought French cuisine into American kitchens like no one else–even earning a prestige TV treatment for her legacy. Her book "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" and the beloved PBS cooking series, "The French Chef," inspired American audiences, especially home cooks and women pursuing culinary careers. With her spirited warble, quick wit, and knack for turning culinary tips into life lessons, she made cooking feel fun, refined, and most importantly attainable. And if you're looking for a dessert as classic and buoyant as Child was, look no further than her favorite: île flottante, the floating island. And how poetic is that?

The name perfectly captures this dessert in both a literal and figurative sense: a delicate meringue "island" floating on a sea of rich crème anglaise, a sweet vanilla custard made from milk, egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla. Though not widely known today, Floating Island was featured in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume 1 and enjoyed its heyday in the U.S. from the early 20th century through the Midcentury Modern era, thanks to the affordability and abundance of eggs and milk. The dessert was also a staple at many restaurants, including Le Cirque, a once-iconic French culinary destination in NYC.

This poetic, vintage dessert has a rich history tracing back to 17th-century France. According to Gastro Obscura, in 1651, François-Pierre de la Varenne pioneered oeufs à la neige ("eggs in snow"), a dessert of sugar-sprinkled, baked egg whites topped with egg yolk. This early culinary creation, highlighting the art of foaming egg whites, quickly became a delicacy among French nobility. 

By the 19th century, the technique of foaming egg whites had been mastered, and dishes like poached meringue served with custard became popular adaptations in many cookbooks. In 1902, the famed chef Auguste Escoffier swapped the meringue for cake soaked in liqueur, resembling ladyfingers. Over time, however, Floating Island returned to its lighter, airy form with classic meringue on crème anglaise.

Though Floating Island may have fallen out of favor in the U.S., it remains a beloved classic in France that keeps evoking childhood memories and family gatherings across generations. The French have long appreciated its simplicity, ease of preparation, and elegant presentation. As baking expert Dorie Greenspan noted in Rachel Khong's "All About Eggs", îles flottantes endures in "a country where people are more likely to buy their desserts from neighborhood pâtisseries than prepare them at home."

It's surprisingly easy to enjoy a sweet "vacation" at home with your own Floating Island, just like the French have done for generations. Made from two essential components, meringue and crème anglaise, this dessert is a breeze to whip up and, in fact, much simpler than baking most cakes! All you need are milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, a pinch of salt, and your favorite toppings.

Begin by preparing a proper crème anglaise, as it needs time to chill before you add the meringue. Whisk the eggs and sugar together, then gently whisk in hot (not boiling) milk until the mixture thickens. Add vanilla, then chill the sauce completely in the fridge. For the meringue, beat the egg whites with sugar and a pinch of salt until stiff peaks form. Next, transfer the meringue to a buttered mold, place it in a bain-marie (a pan of water), and bake. Once cooled, un-mold the meringue and gently float it on top of the chilled crème anglaise. Voilà! You now have your own floating island. Bon appétit — time to dive in ... or since it's an island, dive out!